How Do You Know If Something Is Antique? - Complete Guide

Separating Treasures from Reproductions

Walking into an estate sale or stumbling upon a dusty box in an attic can feel like the start of a treasure hunt. But once the excitement fades, a difficult question remains: Is this a genuine historical piece, or just a clever reproduction?

Learning how to know if something is antique requires a mix of detective work, historical knowledge, and modern verification. Whether you are a budding collector or a reseller, understanding the signs of true age is crucial to avoid overpaying for "fakes."

Here is a comprehensive guide to identifying the real deal.

1. Understand the Definitions: Antique vs. Vintage

Before you buy, you must know what the labels actually mean. In the trade, these terms are not interchangeable.

• Antique: Strictly defined as an item that is at least 100 years old (made before 1925 as of 2024).
• Vintage: An item that is generally between 20 and 99 years old.
• Retro: Usually refers to items from the 1950s–1980s, or modern items made to look old.

If a seller claims a plastic chair is an "antique," proceed with caution—plastic wasn't widely used in furniture until the mid-20th century. Understanding these distinctions is your first line of defense against misrepresentation.

2. Examine the Joinery (Dovetails)

For furniture, the drawers tell the true story. Pull a drawer out and look at how the front connects to the side. This is one of the most reliable dating methods available.

Hand-Cut Dovetails

If the interlocking "teeth" are slightly uneven or of different sizes, it was likely made by hand before 1860. This is a strong sign of a genuine antique. Look for:

• Irregular spacing between dovetails
• Varying sizes of pins and tails
• Evidence of hand tool marks
• Typically wider dovetails (fewer per inch)

Machine-Cut Dovetails

If the joints are perfectly uniform and precise, they were likely cut by a machine, placing the item in the late 19th century or later. Machine-made dovetails are:

• Evenly spaced and identical in size
• Very tight and uniform
• Multiple narrow dovetails

3. Check the Hardware and Screws

Hardware is often the "smoking gun" in antique identification. Original hardware can instantly date a piece, though beware of replacements.

The Screw Test

Remove a screw (if possible) or look closely at the head and threading:

• Hand-cut screws (Pre-1850): These have no point (blunt ends) and the slot for the screwdriver might be slightly off-center. Threads are uneven.
• Machine-made screws (Post-1850): These have sharp points and even, consistent threads.
• Phillips Head (+): If you see a cross-head screw, the hardware is from the 1930s or later—definitely not antique.

Nails

Square or rectangular heads usually indicate 18th or early 19th-century origins, while round wire nails indicate the piece is modern (post-1880s). Look at nail holes too—hand-forged nails leave irregular holes.

4. Look for "Honest" Wear and Patina

"Patina" is the natural aging process that happens to wood, metal, and leather over decades. It is very difficult to fake convincingly, making it one of the best authenticity indicators.

Uneven Wear

A genuine antique chair should show wear where people actually touched it—the arms, the top rail, and the "stretchers" where feet rested. Look for:

• Darker coloring on frequently touched areas
• Smoothed edges from years of handling
• Wear patterns that make logical sense
• Original finish worn away in high-traffic spots

The Bottoms

Flip the item over. The bottom of a 100-year-old table leg should be scuffed and dark from years of mopping and moving. If the bottom looks like fresh, pale wood, it was likely made recently or the feet were replaced.

5. Use Digital Tools to Verify Your Findings

Even the most experienced dealers sometimes struggle to identify obscure maker's marks or specific pottery patterns. This is where technology becomes your safety net and your secret weapon.

Traditional authentication methods require extensive knowledge of manufacturing techniques, historical periods, and regional styles. While these skills take years to develop, modern technology can provide instant expert-level analysis to anyone with a smartphone.

6. Search for Maker's Marks

Always look for signatures, stamps, or labels. These "fingerprints" can instantly identify the creator and date of production.

Where to Look:

• Ceramics and Pottery: Look on the underside for a fired-on stamp, an impressed logo, or hand-painted marks. Some marks are hidden under the glaze.
• Silver: Look for hallmarks (tiny stamped icons) that indicate the purity (e.g., "925" or a lion passant for Sterling) and the city of manufacture. British silver has the most comprehensive marking system.
• Glass: Some high-end glass (like Tiffany or Waterford) will have a faint acid-etched signature on the bottom. Hold it up to the light at an angle.
• Furniture: Check drawers, the back, and underneath for paper labels, stamps, or branded marks. Many quality makers proudly marked their work.

Once you find a mark, you can photograph it and use identification tools to decode its meaning and verify authenticity.

Additional Authentication Techniques

Wood Identification

Different woods were popular in different eras. Oak was common before 1700 and during the Arts and Crafts movement. Mahogany dominated the 18th and 19th centuries. Walnut was favored in the late 17th and early 18th centuries.

Saw Marks

Check the back, bottom, or inside of wooden items:

• Straight saw marks: Hand or pit saw, pre-mid-19th century
• Circular saw marks: Circular saws became common around 1830-1850

Glass and Pontil Marks

On the bottom of glass items, a rough circular scar (pontil mark) indicates the glass was hand-blown. A smooth bottom suggests modern manufacturing.

Final Thoughts: Knowledge is Power

Identifying antiques is a skill that improves with time and practice. By looking at the construction methods (dovetails and screws), analyzing the wear patterns, and double-checking your hunches with tools like the Relico app, you can confidently distinguish between a priceless heirloom and a garage sale knock-off.

Always do your research—it is the only way to ensure you are buying a true piece of history. Whether you're examining joinery, testing hardware, or using modern technology to decode maker's marks, each verification step brings you closer to becoming a confident collector.

Remember: A true antique has survived 100+ years for a reason—quality craftsmanship, valuable materials, and care from previous owners. When you find the real thing, you're not just buying an object; you're becoming a guardian of history.